We are the Kufians of Today

"Deed ki gar talaash hai,sar ko jhuka namaaz mein
Dil se khudi ko bhool kar, khud ko mita namaaz mein
Aaiega tujh ko tab nazar rooh-e-khuda namaz mein
Pahle Hussain ki tarah sar ko kata namaaz mein"

If your quest is to find (see) God, then bow your head in prayer (prostration)
Remove "you" (your desires) from your heart, immerse yourself completely in prayer such that there is no "you" left.
You will only see the "spirit of God" in your prayer, when you are prepared to like Hussain (a.s) have your head cut off during prostration

Its that time of the year again, when all shia Muslims and many non-shias will wear black, flock to mosques and imam-bargahs and pay homage to the great sacrifice of Imam Hussain and his family in the battle of Karbala, which is called a battle but was 72 (approx) men on Hussain's side versus over 10,000 soldiers on Ubaydullah ibn Ziyad's side.

The next 10 days and beyond we will hear fervent sermons by scholars on how the Imam was betrayed by the people of Kufa who had written 150 letters (Ayati, ch.3) to the Imam asking for him to come lead a revolution against the tyrannical and unjust rule of Yazid. Most scholars will do a great job of laying out how these people and their leaders were despicable human beings nothing short of satan himself.

Growing up, listening to these sermons I used to feel a lot of anger and hatred towards the people of Kufa and the army of Umar ibn Saad and who fought against the Imam. What I couldn't understand then was that WHY in the world would you go against someone as pious and honorable as the Imam and support tyrants like (Ziyad and Yazid) whom most of Kufians even despised, after all it is their fellow citymen who wrote the letters asking for the imam to come to their aid in the first place.
But by reading more about the actual history of the events that took place pre, during and post Karbala (A good source is "A probe into the history of Ashura" its on Al-Islam.org for free) I came to realize that the people of Kufa 12,000 of whom vowed to support the Imam upon his arrival were just like you and I. They were as satanic as most of us, nothing more, nothing less. To them this wasn't about what was right and what was wrong. They knew that the Imam was right, to them the question was simply whether or not they would go out of their comfort zone and actually do something about  supporting the Imam? We all know the answer to that. They didn't. They all turned back on their lofty proclamations of support, many of them even using the Quran to support their new stance "Do not subject your lives to destruction with your own hands. (Surah al-Baqarah, 2:195)".

They all had the same excuses we would make today; the responsibility to support the life and well-being of their families, their being under the burden of debt from the state and for a lot of them being in the army meant that the fire in their homes kept burning and food reached the bellies of their kids. They ALL did what would be considered today as a RATIONAL decision. They knew that supporting the Imam was a losing bet. They knew supporting the truth wouldn't pay their bills or put their kids through school. DON'T most of us make the same excuse today? What are we doing today to support the innocent or any just causes? What are we doing to combat extremism in Islam which is corroding us from within? Imam Hussain didn't take up arms against the Romans or the Persians, he stood up against the biggest threat to Islam which came from within the followers of Islam. What are we, as so called "followers of the Imam" doing today to make ourselves worthy of that claim?

Nobody but you alone can answer that question. This note is not to point out the flaws in others but to get us to look at nobody but ourselves in the mirror and ask the question, "Would we truly be able to sacrifice all our comforts to support someone who we knew to be just in their cause but had nothing worldly to offer in return?". And if the answer is NO! like it is in my case then lets vow to be better, lets promise ourselves that our lives won't be just about getting a big house in the suburbs with 65 inch TV screens, but will be more about doing something to support the innocent, and change the lives of ones less fortunate than us.

I truly believe that to be the message of Karbala.

A one in a million Sister!

My time in South Sudan is up, for now! and I will write a lot about it in the coming weeks as now I'm officially unemployed till I start school again in the fall inshallah! Today, I will tell you a story that will touch your heart like it did mine. The story is about none other than my very own sister.

Before I begin the story let me just say that one of the sins that I despised the most since I was a child was hypocrisy, which unfortunately is something extremely prevalent especially amongst Muslims of this world (its okay for me to say it, I am one, a Muslim that is). As a kid I would hear countless Muslims mourn the sacrifices of the grandson of the prophet at the battle of Karbala but I always wondered how many of them would put their and their families life at risk for the sake of God, or for a just cause. The answer unfortunately is: a handful, maaaybe.

My favorite person from Karbala is Zaineb, the grand-daughter of the prophet who sacrificed everything, yet never bowed down in front of tyranny and protected not only her family but Islam as we know it.

Today's story is not about how much I think Islam owes Zaineb but about another woman I love, my sister, Mariam, who works for Unicef in Pakistan. These days she's working on the Polio Eradication Campaign (23 cases this year in Pakistan so far http://www.polioeradication.org/Dataandmonitoring/Poliothisweek.aspx). One of the major hurdles in this eradication battle in Pakistan is the fact that TTP (Tehrek-e-Taliban Pakistan) who are the followers of Al-Qaeda's policy of "lets blow up everyone who doesn't agree with our way of looking at the this world" deem this campaign to be "un-islamic" and a western scam to render the population of Pakistan impotent. Yeah, you heard me, impotent.

On the ground this means that if you are working to eradicate polio in a TTP stronghold you better not be a foreigner cause then you get shot (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-18868267), heaven forbid you're a woman, cause what do women know except for making roti's (bread) and if you're a local man then you better be prepared to deal with some extremely hostile individuals who will more than likely tell you to please be on your way, and not in such a cordial manner.

Now Mariam was on such a mission in remote parts of Punjab province in Pakistan. This places were in the DG khan district (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dera_Ghazi_Khan_District) which is not a taliban strong hold but is definitely heavily influenced by their ideology.

Mariam also has a 7 month old son, Abbas, who accompanied her on this trip. A case can be made of Abbas being one of the cutest kids you'll ever see, beatiful skin, grey eyes, healthy, looks a lot like his uncle some say, except for the eyes off-course :).

Now DG Khan has sizzling temperatures reaching up to 120 F or 49 C this time of the year making it no place for an infant to take his first vacation but my sister is a little crazy, what can I say. It runs in the family.

Coming back to Polio and how this all is connected. As expected some families in DG Khan refused to allow their kids to receive polio vaccination as it obviously causes impotency, but there was great likelihood that if left un-vacinated polio could return in that particular area. Knowing this my sister pleaded her case to the reluctant elders from the hardline Muslim families, trying to explain to them that if they didn't administer the vaccine to their kids, they were in danger of getting polio. But the elders were adamant about the vaccination being a scam and the west's plan of making their kids impotent. It was then that Mariam presented a solution that even Zaineb of Karbala would have been proud of. She told them that she is traveling with her very own infant son and if she administered the vaccine to him in front of the elders, would they then be willing for Unicef personnel to administer the polio vaccination drops to their kids? The elders were dumb-founded, surly this woman from the city wasn't crazy enough to bring her child out of the AC car in this scintillating heat and give her polio drops, and if she were to do it then surly the drops couldn't cause impotency. They agreed thinking that they had called her bluff. Mariam wrapped Abbas in a cloth and took him to several houses in the village who were refusing to vaccinate their children and administered the vaccine that supposedly causes impotency to her own son in front of them. By doing that she put to rest all the suspicions of the elders and all the kids in the area received polio vaccinations.

She truly believes in what she does and who knows, maybe her actions led to someone not being crippled by polio for the rest of their life. I am proud of having her as my sister, I am proud of her not being one of the millions of hypocrites who can talk the talk but don't walk the walk. She is my very own Zaineb.

Meet Mathew – Be inspired by the motorbike mechanic of Panijar

My work these days takes me all over Unity State (that’s the one being bombed) these days. One of the towns on the southern tip of Unity called Panijar is where this story takes place. Panijar’s not what you would call a town back in the US or in any even developing country of the world. There’s ONE road that goes in and out of the town, and its almost a dirt road. There are probably 20 – 30 small huts lined up on both sides of the road when you enter the town which serve as the main market.

I have my breakfast of champions (shisha with tea and biscuits) and brunch (again, shisha with tea and biscuits) there. Once you get to Panijar, to go to the surrounding even smaller towns, its best to take a motorcycle as the roads out of town and into the bush are let’s just say a lot more comfortable and maneuverable if you’re on a motorbike.

Last week, I was about to head out into the bush only to realize that my bike refused to start. I tried every trick I knew to make it start but it wouldn’t. I was told that there is a mechanic in town called Mathew who can help. Now for those of you who know me, you can understand that being a motorbike enthusiast to the point where I even rode my motorbike to uni in 32 degree celsius, hearing the words “take it to a mechanic” feel like someone’s pouring molten lava into my ears. Nevertheless, I had to do something so I dragged the motorbike to the market to meet Mr. Mathew.

Well ladies and gentlemen, Mathew was not only able to start my motorcycle but did it at AGE 13. Yes Mathew, who you can see in the picture attached is only 13, maybe 14, definitely not older than that. Mathew is indeed the town motorbike mechanic. Not only that, Mathew also fixes radio’s and watches in his spare time. I mean if this is not as Russell Peters would put it - MIND BLASTING, then I don’t know what is. He's FREAKING 13.
Sometimes I forget why I do this, but then Mathew comes along, who is everything that a normal teenager is. Extremely shy, goes to primary school, plays soccer with his friends, giggles when he sees a white man, but oh yeah he fixes motorcycles, radios and watches on the side.

Mathew learnt this art while he was in Bentui (the town in north Unity which is being bombed these days) hanging around motorcycle repair shops. His father died when he was very young and so he probably spent a lot of time in these shops. Many kids have that story around here, no father, hanging out in town all the time, but Mathew was/is incidentally a genius as well. Mathew moved back with his mother to Panijar last year, her home town, and is supporting her financially. If this kid was in any other country on this planet he would be paraded on TV, would go to some school for the gifted, but, alas he’s the Kohenoor (largest diamond in the world taken by the British from India) stuck in one of the remotest parts of the world.

Mathew and I are really tight now (at least thats what I think) and I asked him the other day what he wanted as a gift. That’s when the real 13 year old came out, “a motorcycle, so I can go really fast”. I told him we can think about that a few years down the road but for now if he does well in his class this year, I’ll get him a kick ass tool box. He giggled and told me “that will do as well”.

I did have something for Mathew that I hold very dear to my heart, my Leatherman multi-tool (sorry nani) equipped with pliers, cutter, stripper, knife and screwdrivers. I wish other people could see the look on his face when I gave it to him. He held that 50 dollar thing like it was a 5 carat diamond, and yet again like a 5 year old girl, I had tears in my eyes.

Sometimes, I wonder if people here realize how much joy they bring to my life. I can’t thank God enough for letting me see such wonders of this world. I will never understand how in amidst all the hunger, poverty, war and chaos such an unbelievable treasure can unearth, but I will always be grateful when I look up to the heavens for giving me the chance of witnessing it. 

Fabi ayyi aala e rabi kuma tukazibaan

The day I almost died

The Honda City was cruising along at 120 km (75 miles) an hour on the 3 lane highway that connects the cities of Lahore and Islamabad.  I had just visited my dying grandfather for what was going to my last time ever seeing him. I had landed in Pakistan from South Sudan only 3 hours ago was now on my way to Islamabad. We were about 2 hours away from Islamabad when it started to drizzle. It was prayer time so the driver and I made a pit stop for the mosque by the side of the road. By the time we were done with prayers it started pouring, and I was soaking wet when we restarted our journey. I reached back into my daypack to pull out a dry shirt to put on. Unfortunately, I had to unbuckle my seat belt in order to change my shirt. While buttoning up the shirt I realized that the car started to skid, I thought of trying to put the seat belt on but it was too late, I put my hand on the dash board, shut my eyes and hoped for the best.
The car spun a few times and ended up in a ditch. I remember while it was twisting and twirling in the air and on the ground I kept reassuring myself that I was still alive as every microsecond past. Finally, it all came to a full stop. No more movement, I was completely wet with my body underwater lying horizontal inside the inverted car. I must have past out for a few moments as I heard a faint sound that kept coming closer and getting louder - it was the driver. He just kept repeating my name and I didn't have the energy to respond. Finally, I told him that I was okay and soon after a group of people pulled me out of the vehicle and into the rain. I've had the pleasure of being in a few crazy car crashes but every time I got away with minor scratches, this time though it felt different. I couldn't move my neck  and back at all. I was pretty sure I broke something. I couldn't sit or lay down, the only thing I could do was stand with the support of my rescuers.
I remember them bringing water for me and asking me if I was okay and I just wanted them to shut up and let me be. I was in pain, it was raining and my phones were not working anymore. The luggage had apparently flown out of the trunk, everything was wet and I couldn't get through to my family. The only numbers I knew off the top of my head were my parent's home phone number and my father's cell phone. Knowing how "kabutar dil" (dove hearted) my dad is and I mean that in a loving, respectful way, I couldn't call him, so I decided to have my rescuers call the home phone. Luckily my sister picked up, I think she did, I really can't remember much but I know I spoke to her. I told her that I had been in a car crash on the highway coming and I needed to get to a hospital right away. I told her there was little chance that I could get through again cause the phones were not working.
In the mean time my rescuers were trying to look for the police patrol. Usually they are pretty prevalent on the highway and pass by every 15 minutes. Whatever the reason that day, no police car was in sight. My best option was to get to Islamabad somehow and hope that my sister arranged for an ambulance at the toll plaza.
This highway is like the turnpike where each exist is 30 to 40 minutes apart so it would have made no sense for an ambulance to come get me from Islamabad which was an hour and a half away from the site of the accident.
My rescuers were vehemently trying to pull over any vehicle so that I could be given a ride to Islamabad, but no one stopped. No one even stopped to find out what the hell was wrong with a guy bloody, being held upright by other people on the side of the road.
Now the highway connecting Lahore and Islamabad is known as the "motorway" and the motorway attracts mostly fancy cars that go at high speeds on a state of the art highway. The people who had stopped to help me were local residents from the area who had jumped over the fence to assist. They were the poorest of the poor, the scum of the earth, while the elite of Pakistan were driving by one after the other, oblivious to the fact that a desperate person needed help.
Finally an empty van did stop. I was told it was a guy who was headed to Lahore (the opposite direction) noticed an accident and turned around to drive 30 miles back to help out. The man agreed to take me another 1.5 hours in the opposite direction to where he was headed. I didn't have the energy to thank him enough. I somehow fit in the back of his van still soaking wet and he drove me to the toll plaza that marked the city limits of Islamabad. There, I saw my sister and uncle waiting with an ambulance.
I asked my sister to make sure that the gentleman who had driven me to Islamabad be compensated well. It turned out that the vehicle did not even belong to him. He was simply the hired driver for that vehicle (another poor scum of the earth who went out of his way, risked his own job to help me). My sister told me that he refused to take money stating "how can I take money from you, it is Ramadan and I'm fasting. I helped your brother because that's what God would have wanted me to do".
I ended up suffering a slipped disk in my neck and severe bruising in my lower vertebra's. I was lucky. From the pictures one can see how much more worse it could have been.
When I narrated the story to my family members and friends of my parents, they understood why people in their fancy cars didn't pull over for me. They told me that there were many robberies happening that way, where robbers would fake an accident to make someone stop and then rob them and steal their vehicle.
To me it was sickening to hear it. Anyways, I'm not going to state my feelings on why the rich have something to loose and the poor don't thus they didn't stop, and I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt, but what I did decide was that no matter what happens, I will never become them. They want to NOT stop for people dying on the side of the road, more power to them but I will never work for their betterment.
I think my accident was a reminder to me. I hear it all the time when I go back to the US or come to Pakistan, "when will you get a real job again Ali, when will this adventure of yours stop". And this job is frustrating, and many times a day you're like "why the hell don't I just go back and get a normal job, normal life with a wife and a car and a house in the suburbs and a cat, and a coffee shop, a nice imam bargah to go to, make babies" you get the point. But then incidents like these happen and you are presented to all the answers to your WHY AM I DOING THIS? question. How can I ever turn my back on the poor scum of the earth when they were the only ones who came to my aid when I needed it and asked for nothing in return.

I don't remember the faces of any of the guys that helped me, it was raining and I was in pain but that same night when I got home I got a call on my phone. I picked up and a guy asked me if I was Ali sahab (sir), the guy in the car accident. He then went on to tell me that he was one of the guys who pulled me out of the car and wanted to know how I was doing. I couldn't hold back my tears. He had gotten my contact information through the driver. He went on to tell me that I will be okay and that once I am, I should come over to his small village to see him. And that he'll show me around. After that much love how can I ever stop working for such people. Regardless of whether I end up a rich man or become poor in the process, it would be the biggest hypocrisy if I ever turned my back on the most needy in this world.

Khaleej Times Pakistan Supplement

Wanted to congratulate all the people who are working to make a difference in the lives of many who need help. Keep up the the great work!

http://www.khaleejtimes.com/ramadan2011/rmd_story1.asp?xfile=/data/ramadannews/2011/August/ramadannews_August58.xml&section=ramadannews&

The birth of a new nation - South Sudan

I've been in southern Sudan for over two years now, and it's been an emotional roller coaster. There have been tremendous highs and lows - from seeing a young boy who was wrongfully sentenced for rape to a jail cell with one meal a day for 10 years, be released only after six months to be reunited with his wife and child, to knowing about twelve, thirteen year old girls seeking shade under the chassis of a 6x6 truck from the scorching sun at the prison, trying to protect their infant children who were a result of incessant rape by the guards.

Yeah, I've probably seen more horrible things than good ones but there was no better feeling than the euphoria of witnessing the birth of the world's 193rd state - The Republic of South Sudan.

I've been living in Juba for the last few months and was very exited that I would be able to witness the speech given by the interim President of a new nation, live! Unfortunately, last minute work related activities required me to travel to the city of Kapoeta situated in the south east corner of South Sudan. At first I was really bummed cause I wouldn't be able to witness history in the making and would have had to watch the speech of Ban ki Moon and Salva Kiir on TV like everyone else even though I was in the south. I couldn't have been more incorrect.

Kapoeta is a big regional town, home to the Toposa tribe, but they are not the only ones here, the Nuer, and many from the powerful Dinka tribe (President's tribe) are also residing here. It is where the locals are, the actual people of this land. The people who have been part of struggle for Independence for over 50 years. Everyday people, cattle herders, black smith's, traders, and farmers - not the thousands of aid workers and dignitaries who were going to witness a dog and pony show in Juba. This was going to be original, this was going to be extemporaneous, this would be an outburst of joy unlike the planned activities of Juba. And yes, I wasn't disappointed for one moment.

I was lucky enough to be right under the flag of north Sudan (on the right) when it was lowered down by the state officials and the new flag of South Sudan (on the left) was being raised. I was right there when everyone stormed towards their new flag. It was as if one's favorite team had won the world championship and everyone stormed the pitch. There were thousands of people bouncing up and down to the beat of their new national anthem under their new flag. I had chills for 10 minutes. It was a feeling I will never forget for the rest of my life. I saw tears in the eyes of men from the SPLA (sudan people's liberation army) who had probably seen more horrific things as child soldiers than we can imagine. I could do nothing to stop the tears that trickled down my own face even though I had only been part of this land for two years.

This land that is the size of France with a population of 8 million has tremendous potential. It is blessed with tremendously fertile soil, it is rich with minerals and a proven 5 - 10 billion barrels (could be a lot more) of oil, making it the third largest oil producer in Africa after Nigeria and Angola.

That being said, there is virtually no infrastructure in the country. Up until last year there were 30 km of paved roads in ALL of South Sudan. There is a great shortage of clean water in almost the entire country, vast majority of people are illiterate and their life style resembles pastorals from 500 years ago. There is a shortage of health care facilities, electricity, and other social services. There are no markets, nor any industries that could promote trade and commerce. Over the last few years money has been pouring in from other countries in the form of NGO run aid programs which has kept the ship afloat. The money that has been coming in for development is widely being accused by locals of being warming the pockets of those at the very top. You see massive mansions and brand new Toyota Land Cruisers springing up everywhere amidst shanty huts in Juba. Corruption is rampant at all levels. No money that is coming to Juba trickles down to the other 10 states. Basically, it doesn't look good at all.

In addition, the South has always been very divided amongst various tribes that haven't coexisted harmoniously since like for ever. Over the last 50 years or so they had a common enemy in the North which they don't any more. There are already signs of discontent amongst the various militia leaders who had allied together to be part of the SPLA but now want a bigger piece of the pie. All of them want those Hummers and mansions. Yeah, I know I did say Hummers, there are plenty here.

Then there are unresolved border issues with the north in the oil rich area of Abyei (north west) and Nuba mountains (north east).

What a cluster **** right?

You hear all of what I've just said above dissected in 400 ways every day in the news. "Experts", mostly Arab mind you, use these "problems" to support their argument that "the south should not have seceded", or that they should have "waited for another few years till they could stand up on their own feet". Till they had an "infrastructure in place".

I abhor and detest these type of comments so much I can't every express it in words. "Wait" they say? Wait for what? being treated like shit for another 50 years. The reason why there is NO infrastructure, NO electricity, NO water, NO roads, NOTHING in the south is because they were under the North for the last 50 years. The North gave them nothing, except for war and misery, so how will being under them make things any WORSE off than they already are.

Whats the worst that can happen, they'll be a failed state? There won't be any development? WAKE up people they have been failed for 5 decades, at least now they will be failed but FREE and I'll take failed but free, over failed and oppressed any day, and so will all of you.

The hope of this country lies in its youth. In the hundreds of thousands who fled during the war into neighboring countries, mostly Kenya, who are dying to come back home and make something of themselves and their new nation. These are people who never were really Kenyan or Ethiopian or Ugandan even if they spent decades there. They were always Sudanese and now they are coming back. On my recent trip back from the US, I met two British Sudanese bankers who were coming back to Sudan. I asked them if this was just a visit or more than that. They looked at me as if I had cursed them out "We're coming back home, brother, home for good". It is this educated youth that gives me hope for South Sudan.

Will South Sudan be a bust or a major success? Only time will tell. But for me, I will never forget being part of history being made. It has left a mark that will never be washed away. I wish this beautiful nation the very best and I will do everything I can till I'm here to do my part in helping it.

Trip to Pakistan Part II - Mo and the merry men of Parachinar

So after a mini hiatus I write the part II of my very contentious earlier post. I hope the folk who criticized me so vociferously do read this edition as well.

As soon as I got home in Islamabad from the airport I had forgotten about my encounter with the "smoking guy" and the police officer. I was looking forward to my sisters wedding which I was here for. As I had written in the last post weddings in Pakistan are a huge deal. When I mean huge, I mean really really huge. Festivities that go on for at least a week, one ceremony after another. Too much food, too much 'bling'. Sorry I digress, weddings in Pakistan can wait another day. Coming back to the dichotomy in Pakistan. In my last post I presented a bleak view of the conditions with the airport story but the flip side of the coin was shown to me on my trip to the mosque on Friday.

Fridays are always fun in Pakistan. You feel spiritual as soon as you wake up. There is something very mystical about them. Everybody cleans up well, wears sparkling white clothes, gels back their hair, puts on perfume to go to the mosque for 'Friday Prayer'.

I've attended the same mosque every Friday since I was about 10 years old, and now I make sure I visit it every time I'm in Pakistan. It used to be a very modest building back when I was a young boy but now its blossemed into this beaituful mosque having tall marbled minarets with an adjecent library and academy.

Before 2005, it used to be that one could enter and exit the 'house of God' without any fear but these days thanks to our 'true' believer friends, the 'Taliban' and the ones that they inspire, it feels like you are an Arab passing through an airport checkpoint in the US. Two sets of pat downs, all items to be displayed etc etc. But it has become an unfortunate necessity and I salute the boys and girls who are standing at the checkpoints as they are always the ones who end up loosing their lives when the crazy lunatics do decide to blow themselves up. For those who haven't been following closely, last year their were over 70 bombings in Pakistan, that's a bomb going off once every five days or so and most of them were at mosques or schools. Obviously, what else would you like to bomb to show your dismay towards the great satanic forces of the west right? Vulnerable worshipers and kids, makes complete sense!

I finally enter the mosque and get situated to listen to the lecture by the maulana prior to the namaz. After the Friday prayer you have kids going through the isles collecting donations while the management makes announcements/pledge calls for different charitable causes. One of these announcements caught my attention. The announcement was of group of young men who were in the local city hospital brought over from Parachinar (Parachinar is capital of Kurram Agency has an area of 1305 square miles and situated in KP province of Pakistan right on the border with Afghanistan) after deadly clashes while fighting the Taliban.

After the prayers were over and everyone was leaving I went over to the gentleman who had made the announcement to inquire more details. He directed me to another gentleman who gave me the phone number to a man by the name of Muhammad who was looking after the injured at a local hospital in Islamabad.

After calling a few different people I was able to get a hold of Muhammad who went on to explain to me that the injured were indeed civilians from Parachinar, some who were severely injured in fighting against the Taliban. The Taliban and their allies have been trying to get a foothold in that region for many years now but have been met with brave resistance from the local community. Their reasons for doing that are very straightforward, they don't want to get screwed over by the Taliban or the US drone attacks, if not the US army itself. For them its all about survival, the Taliban hate them and they don't particularly like the US army either. So if they don't fight, the Taliban end up getting a foothold in that area which would give them easy access to Peshawar and Islamabad. Furthermore, it would give the Allied forces in Afghanistan reason to bomb that area with drone airplanes which would also lead to civilian casualties. So the solution is to take up arms against the Taliban themselves.

After talking to him I was very intrigued and wanted to pay the hospital a visit. The next evening I took a break from the crazy wedding activities and headed over to the hospital where Muhammad was waiting for me. Muhammad who looked to be in his early thirties, an accountant by profession, was a pashto speaking typical 'pathan' in appearance; tall, broad, fair in complexion, and very soft spoken. If I ever brought him over to my house I can hear my mom saying 'Ali, why couldn't you ever turn out to be this gentlemanly'.

Muhammad and I exchanged pleasantries, and while we made our way to the hospital ward where they were admitted he explained to me who these injured guys were, what and how they sustained their injuries and what all their needs were? Upon arrival I saw several men between the ages of 18 - 25 all having sustained severe injuries. Some with amputated legs, others with broken bones, shrapnel wounds, you name it. But what hit me the most was not the severity of their wounds, but the magnanimity of their spirit. Muhammad introduced me as a 'khairkwa' - (concerned person) from the mosque who had come to visit them, thank them and hopefully assist them. I was greeted by them like a brother, like one who had been fighting alongside them in Parachinar. A few of them went on to tell me how they received no support from the Government or any other sources in their quest to resist the Taliban, but their spirits were high and as soon as they got better they would go back, be it on one leg. They were doing it for their survival and more importantly for the survival of their religion. The message that they wanted me to convey to whoever I met in the west was that 'not all of us are like them, and we will not sit back let our lands be conquered and our religion be hijacked by thugs'.

After this very emotional meeting, Muhammad and I walked out while he explained to me how he has along with taking care of the wounded, been working with the community in Parachinaar for years now trying to build schools and basic health care centers in that region. He also explained to me how little support they have received from the Government and how most of his funds are from private donors, mosques etc.

Muhammad and I are in constant touch now and I'm pretty sure in the coming years after my Carter Center campaign is over I will move to the North West part of Pakistan and help him in his quest to bring more attention to this forgotten part of Pakistan where 'men of honor' still exist in abundance.

I had written earlier that Pakistan is a place where you will find corruption and apathy in abundance, but it is also a place where you will find selflessness and valour in people like Muhammad who will literally fight for the just cause till their last breath. For those who say that Pakistan is a failed state that will crumble soon, I say that you need come and meet Muhammad and his merry men of Parachinar and if you stay a little longer I'm sure you'll have no trouble in finding millions like him all over the country.

Love from Sudan