Saturday, July 16, 2011

The birth of a new nation - South Sudan

I've been in southern Sudan for over two years now, and it's been an emotional roller coaster. There have been tremendous highs and lows - from seeing a young boy who was wrongfully sentenced for rape to a jail cell with one meal a day for 10 years, be released only after six months to be reunited with his wife and child, to knowing about twelve, thirteen year old girls seeking shade under the chassis of a 6x6 truck from the scorching sun at the prison, trying to protect their infant children who were a result of incessant rape by the guards.

Yeah, I've probably seen more horrible things than good ones but there was no better feeling than the euphoria of witnessing the birth of the world's 193rd state - The Republic of South Sudan.

I've been living in Juba for the last few months and was very exited that I would be able to witness the speech given by the interim President of a new nation, live! Unfortunately, last minute work related activities required me to travel to the city of Kapoeta situated in the south east corner of South Sudan. At first I was really bummed cause I wouldn't be able to witness history in the making and would have had to watch the speech of Ban ki Moon and Salva Kiir on TV like everyone else even though I was in the south. I couldn't have been more incorrect.

Kapoeta is a big regional town, home to the Toposa tribe, but they are not the only ones here, the Nuer, and many from the powerful Dinka tribe (President's tribe) are also residing here. It is where the locals are, the actual people of this land. The people who have been part of struggle for Independence for over 50 years. Everyday people, cattle herders, black smith's, traders, and farmers - not the thousands of aid workers and dignitaries who were going to witness a dog and pony show in Juba. This was going to be original, this was going to be extemporaneous, this would be an outburst of joy unlike the planned activities of Juba. And yes, I wasn't disappointed for one moment.

I was lucky enough to be right under the flag of north Sudan (on the right) when it was lowered down by the state officials and the new flag of South Sudan (on the left) was being raised. I was right there when everyone stormed towards their new flag. It was as if one's favorite team had won the world championship and everyone stormed the pitch. There were thousands of people bouncing up and down to the beat of their new national anthem under their new flag. I had chills for 10 minutes. It was a feeling I will never forget for the rest of my life. I saw tears in the eyes of men from the SPLA (sudan people's liberation army) who had probably seen more horrific things as child soldiers than we can imagine. I could do nothing to stop the tears that trickled down my own face even though I had only been part of this land for two years.

This land that is the size of France with a population of 8 million has tremendous potential. It is blessed with tremendously fertile soil, it is rich with minerals and a proven 5 - 10 billion barrels (could be a lot more) of oil, making it the third largest oil producer in Africa after Nigeria and Angola.

That being said, there is virtually no infrastructure in the country. Up until last year there were 30 km of paved roads in ALL of South Sudan. There is a great shortage of clean water in almost the entire country, vast majority of people are illiterate and their life style resembles pastorals from 500 years ago. There is a shortage of health care facilities, electricity, and other social services. There are no markets, nor any industries that could promote trade and commerce. Over the last few years money has been pouring in from other countries in the form of NGO run aid programs which has kept the ship afloat. The money that has been coming in for development is widely being accused by locals of being warming the pockets of those at the very top. You see massive mansions and brand new Toyota Land Cruisers springing up everywhere amidst shanty huts in Juba. Corruption is rampant at all levels. No money that is coming to Juba trickles down to the other 10 states. Basically, it doesn't look good at all.

In addition, the South has always been very divided amongst various tribes that haven't coexisted harmoniously since like for ever. Over the last 50 years or so they had a common enemy in the North which they don't any more. There are already signs of discontent amongst the various militia leaders who had allied together to be part of the SPLA but now want a bigger piece of the pie. All of them want those Hummers and mansions. Yeah, I know I did say Hummers, there are plenty here.

Then there are unresolved border issues with the north in the oil rich area of Abyei (north west) and Nuba mountains (north east).

What a cluster **** right?

You hear all of what I've just said above dissected in 400 ways every day in the news. "Experts", mostly Arab mind you, use these "problems" to support their argument that "the south should not have seceded", or that they should have "waited for another few years till they could stand up on their own feet". Till they had an "infrastructure in place".

I abhor and detest these type of comments so much I can't every express it in words. "Wait" they say? Wait for what? being treated like shit for another 50 years. The reason why there is NO infrastructure, NO electricity, NO water, NO roads, NOTHING in the south is because they were under the North for the last 50 years. The North gave them nothing, except for war and misery, so how will being under them make things any WORSE off than they already are.

Whats the worst that can happen, they'll be a failed state? There won't be any development? WAKE up people they have been failed for 5 decades, at least now they will be failed but FREE and I'll take failed but free, over failed and oppressed any day, and so will all of you.

The hope of this country lies in its youth. In the hundreds of thousands who fled during the war into neighboring countries, mostly Kenya, who are dying to come back home and make something of themselves and their new nation. These are people who never were really Kenyan or Ethiopian or Ugandan even if they spent decades there. They were always Sudanese and now they are coming back. On my recent trip back from the US, I met two British Sudanese bankers who were coming back to Sudan. I asked them if this was just a visit or more than that. They looked at me as if I had cursed them out "We're coming back home, brother, home for good". It is this educated youth that gives me hope for South Sudan.

Will South Sudan be a bust or a major success? Only time will tell. But for me, I will never forget being part of history being made. It has left a mark that will never be washed away. I wish this beautiful nation the very best and I will do everything I can till I'm here to do my part in helping it.